I guess this adds stress to the hinge, but is that a problem? TheHusband doesn't want to do this because it is inelegant, and he thinks it looks like a hack job. However, we have cabinet latches that will hold the doors shut. If we do this, the doors do not close all the way on their own. Install the hinge snug, with no jutting out. Ok, my choices, now that I've spent all this money on all these hinges:ġ. Do most DIYers who are doing their own hinges actually have back bevelled doors? I've never even seen a back bevelled door before. If the hinges are wide enough.Īrrrrrrrgh! I wish it had stated something about back bevelling on the website. He said he hadn't heard of jutting them out, but, come to think of it, that would work too.

I asked a very nice man at Horton Brasses about this, and he said that usually doors with these types of hinges are back bevelled. If they do, the screw holes would be ridiculously close to the edge of the door and also the face frame. This is how all the old hinges were done-jutting out a bit.īut the new hinges are so narrow, they cannot jut out. In order for the inset cabinet door to close all the way, the hinge has to jut out about 1/8 (maybe a teeny bit less). The main problem: the new hinges are much narrower (front to back) than my old hinges. What a NIGHTMARE! I can't understand why non mortise hinges are advertised as easy to install. Soooo, I gave up, and reluctantly ordered about 16 pairs of non mortise hinges from Horton Brasses.

And lots of ball finials were broken off. They were coated in multiple layers of paint, and turned out to be a poor quality, plated steel, non mortise hinge. Last year I attempted to restore the original hinges.

We are finally, FINALLY almost ready to paint the cabinets (after 2 weeks of prep work-and I'm only painting 1/2 of the kitchen right now). Background: we have been restoring (not renovating) our 1929 kitchen for 2 years now.

Installing non mortise hinge